Page 1

Marbling Supplies

Making Marbling Size
-Carrageenan
-Methyl Cellulose
-Alkaline Water
-PH and Water
-Water Quality

Fabric Choice & Preparation

Textile Preservation

Marbling Paints

Mixing Paints

Marbling Tools

Do It!

Page 4

Resources

Marbling is the art of floating paints on top of a liquid solution, manipulating those paints into patterns, then transferring the pattern to an object by laying the object on top of the paints. Some of the tools necessary for a marbling project can be made from everyday household items, but before you begin you will need a few special supplies.

Marbling Supplies

Methyl Cellulose
Paints are floated on a jelly-like solution called 'size.' Methyl cellulose is one choice.

Carrageenan
Traditional size, made from a seaweed extract commonly used as a thickening agent in foods and pharmaceuticals.

Alum
For the paints to adhere properly, fabric must be treated with a "mordant," in this case a solution of alum and water.

Paints
A variety of paints can be used. For fabric, I prefer Golden Artist Colors and Deka Permanent Fabric Paints, but nearly any acrylic paint can be used. Experiment with as many as possible to see which types you like best.

Patterning Tools
Most marbling tools resemble oversized combs. You can construct simple ones by inserting items such as nails, straight pins, drapery hooks, or plastic curler picks through strips of wood. You can also purchase professional combs.

Marbling Tray
You'll need a tray long and wide enough to accommodate the pieces of fabric you'll be marbling. To begin, you might try one of the charcoal gray seedling trays you see at lawn and garden shops, or a plastic storage box such as those available at most discount stores.

Other items you'll need:
--non-sudsy ammonia--be sure to check the ammonia label to make sure it does not contain a surfactant, which will interfere with the paint's ability to float on the size. To test brands without an ingredients label, place a few drops of the ammonia into a pan of water containing a small amount of oil. If the oil spreads rapidly to the sides of the pan (as it does when detergent is added to a dirty dish) there is a surfactant present. DO NOT use the ammonia for marbling.
--old newspapers
--white vinegar
--distilled water
--cups for mixing your paints
--eye droppers and/or plastic spout-tipped bottles, like the ones used for dyeing hair.

Making Size

Size is the jellylike substance your paints must float on, and the two types used most often are carrageenan and methyl cellulose, often referred to as methylcel. Both are non toxic products used as fillers in the food industry.

Carrageenan, a seaweed extract, is the traditional marbling size. Many marblers prefer it over methylcel, especially those who work with watercolor paints on paper. They feel it gives them better control, and results in more precise patterning.

Personally, I prefer methylcel, since after mixing it has a longer life than carrageenan, which spoils quickly in hot or humid conditions. Carrageenan also tends to become contaminated by acrylic paints after fewer "prints" of fabric.

I recommend you try both, to see which you prefer. And, be sure to experiment with different types of paints on both mediums. Acrylics are commonly used to marble fabrics, but oil paints produce a unique look. The best word to associate with the craft of marbling is experimentation, because what works best for one crafter isn't necessarily the best choice for another.

Carrageenan

Carrageenan can be mixed in a blender. Here's the standard recipe.

1. Fill a gallon milk jug with water.

2. Use a portion of the water to half-fill your blender. Replace the cover and turn the blender on a low to medium setting.

3. Remove the blender cover and sprinkle 1 Tablespoon of carrageenan into the moving water.

4. As the blender continues to stir, add enough water to the solution to make the container approximately 2/3 full.

5. Turn off the blender and pour the solution into a bucket or your marbling tray.

6. Repeat steps 2-5 a second time, using another Tablespoon of carrageenan.

7. Pour any water remaining in your original gallon-container into the mixed size solution.

8. Repeat if you need an additional gallon of size.

9. Stir, cover, and allow size to age for 12 -24 hours before using. Air bubbles will disappear.

Methyl Cellulose

1. Stir 3-4 Tablespoons of methylcel into a gallon of water (wire whisks are great for this). You'll notice that the mixture becomes cloudy, but does not begin to thicken. The cloudiness is caused by tiny particles of methylcel suspended in the water. If you stop stirring at this point, and allow the size to sit, the methylcel will eventually drift to the bottom of your container.

2. To actually dissolve the methylcel, you must make the solution more alkaline. Stir 1-2 teaspoons of clear, non-sudsy ammonia into your gallon of size. Be sure to add the ammonia AFTER the methylcel is thoroughly dispersed throughout the water. Experiment to find the least amount of ammonia that will dissolve the particles.

3. Continue stirring until the mixture thickens slightly and you are sure it is free of lumps.

4. Allow the size to sit for approximately 10 minutes. Stir again thoroughly.

5. Neutralize the alkalinity created by the ammonia by adding 1 teaspoon of white vinegar to the size. Stir.

6. Larger quantities can be mixed if needed, just double or triple the recipe.

7. Pour size into your tray, cover and allow to cure for 12-24 hours. Air bubbles will disappear.

If Your Water is Alkaline

If you stir methylcel into very alkaline water it will begin to dissolve immediately, clumping together in a gooey mass. Methylcel must be dispersed throughout the water before an alkaline environment is present.

Those of you who live in areas with alkaline water will need to make this slight change to the standard directions

1. Add 1-2 teaspoons of white vinegar to each gallon of water BEFORE you add the methylcel, then proceed as instructed.

PH and Water

PH papers are sold by marbling suppliers, garden centers and other retailers. These "dip and read" papers may help you determine how much ammonia and vinegar to add when making your size. The final solution should have a fairly neutral pH (7).

Water Quality

If your water is "hard," containing calcium or other minerals, it may help to stir in 1/8 -- 1/4 teaspoon of water softener (such as Calgon) before adding the methylcel or carrageenan. (Note: not fabric softener)

Many books recommend you use distilled water for making size, especially when using carrageenan. Try your tap water first, it will probably be fine. If your size becomes contaminated quickly, switch to distilled water to see if it makes a difference.

Contamination is a normal result of repeatedly floating paints on the size. A portion of the paint from each print will sink and become mixed in the solution, eventually creating problems with your patterning (examples: patterns don't comb smoothly, paints "tear," creating open circles). Minimize contamination by cleaning the size after each print, and making sure your paints are mixed to the proper consistency.

Page 1 -> 2 -> 3 -> 4

©1996, 1999, Janet Wickell